Individual Impact Entrepreneur Report
Project "WHAT A WASTE"
Social Entrepreneurship: Building Impact Ventures
Written by Ida Antonsson
1.Introduction
WHAT A WASTE is an impact venture and social initiative that is active in Lisbon to promote and enable people to recycle their clothes and garments in a responsible way. The entrepreneur, Milena Kravetz has a long background in the industry and a continuous spark to work towards kinder and more sustainable fashion without compromising its creative expression.
This report includes information about the venture as well as the entrepreneur, an analysis of the initiative and how it relates to the material of the course "Social Entrepreneurship: Building Impact Ventures", as well as a reflection of the insights gained from an interview with the entrepreneur.
2. Impact venture: WHAT A WASTE
WHAT A WASTE Is an impact initiative created by fashion photographer Kravetz to prolongthe lifespan of clothes. The project includes a 5-step programme that Kravetz has developed on her own. Swap events, Giving, Upcycling Initiative, Responsible Recycling, and Resell.
While working in the fashion industry, Kravetz noticed that garments in the industry today has a very short life despite the strains on the environment and the labourers creating them. She also noticed that there is a high demand for cheap clothes and a growing guilt among consumers as an awareness about the negative impact garments have both socially and environmentally.
The inspiration that sparked the idea of WHAT A WASTE stems from six main dimensions: environmental concerns, ethical production, innovation in materials, consumer demand for sustainability, supporting local economies, and educational impact. Kravetz describes that the water pollution, waste accumulation, and carbon emissions from the fashion industry are problematic, and she was inspired by circular fashion practices, and development of new sustainable production practices. Regarding the production of clothes, the awareness of how the workers are treated through labour exploitation, unfair wages, and poor working conditions has motivated ventures like WHAT A WASTE to more ethically produced garments where the brands hold respect for their workers and their well-being. Furthermore, Kravetz finds inspiration in the innovation and development of sustainable materials like recycled textiles or alternatives like plant-based leather – it reduces the strain on the environment as well as opens up for new, creative ways; this also corresponds to the increased eco-consciousness among consumers that drives demand for environmentally responsible garments. Locally produced and locally sourced also helps reducing the emissions from transportation and supporting local artists, textile producers as well as a community for those passionate about the topic. Lastly, WHAT A WASTE as a sustainable fashion project raises awareness regarding environmental and social impacts of fashion, which influences consumers and clients to a more responsible behaviour which in turn influences industry standards.
As clothes and textiles tend to have a short life and get thrown in landfills, pollutes, etc. (EU-Parliament, 2020; BBC, 2020; Greenpeace, 2023) WHAT A WASTE is working to solve this societal problem.
Greenpeace published a report on how most of garments today are bought from fast-fashion brands that make their products out of fossil fuels that are turned into polyester and other synthetic fabrics (Greenpeace, 2023). Greenpeace goes on by stating that these garments shed microplastics when washed and pollutes soil, air, and water when it is disposed of in a landfill. As the fashion industry continuously reduces the timeframe that each collection, clothes go out of style faster than ever, which in turn pushes consumers to buy more and wear each garment for a shorter period of time, and then dispose of it.
3. The Entrepreneur: Milena Kravetz
Milena Kravetz is an international fashion photographer and creative director currently based in Lisbon Portugal, she started the project called "WHAT A WASTE" as an initiative to make fashion more sustainable.
Kravetz has a Master's Degree in Fine Arts and Sculpture, which she has previously utilised through significant contributions to documentary photography and filmmaking for UNESCO. Her professional background includes, including award-winning work as a director of photography. Milena combines her teaching and artistic skills in various projects that emphasize sustainability and creative expression.
The idea that a candle can give fire to other candles without losing light inspired Kravetz to share with her community, she considers it a symbol of unity and inspires her to keep giving. Kravetz follows the belief that charity goes beyond sending materials to those in need, it also includes sharing skills and resources among the community you are a part of. In this definition of charity, which some may also consider social entrepreneurial initiatives or projects, Kravetz has started multiple charities.
One example from 2015 took place in India and was called "Giving Day", Kravetz was at the time a creative director in a denim shop and noticed that a vast volume of samples and older models of their stock were sent directly into landfills. In this social project, Kravetz gathered this stock of clothes from manufacturers and shops to redistribute them to those in need. Yet another example of a social project Kravetz started focused on assembling bookshelves from collected books and placed them in public places such as hospitals and educational centres to enable people to read more. Although these projects were never registered as official ventures, they were clear social entrepreneurial activities and were built to connect with the community around her.~
With these insights as inspiration, and a desire to create positive impact on her community, Kravetz created WHAT A WASTE to promote reuse and responsible upcycling to recycle garments already produced to create a system of responsible recycling that is accessible to her community.
4. Interview/results
The interview performed offered a lot of insights to WHAT A WASTE as a project and social initiative. It was performed in written form to ensure that Kravetz's words where correctly transcribed and to efficiently manage time as it offered the entrepreneur to spend time to think over the questions and adequate time to respond to each of them. The full interview with questions and answers can be found in the Appendix of this report.
WHAT A WASTE addresses the vast waste generated by the fashion industry, promoting eco-friendly practices and balancing the artistry of fashion with sustainability. Inspired by environmental concerns, ethical production, innovative materials, consumer demand for sustainability, support for local economies, and the educational impact of sustainable fashion, Kravetz aims to reduce the industry's negative environmental and social impacts.
The target group is consistently evolving and adjusting to the market and stakeholders, and WHAT A WASTE maintains an agile approach to meet their needs. What differentiates WHAT A WASTE from other sustainable fashion initiatives on the market are its unique swap events, which combine fashion, entertainment, and community engagement, as well as its collaborations that benefit those in need. The initiative's focus on upcycling by local artists, commitment to responsible recycling, and involvement in local markets help sustain its operations and promote circular fashion.
Currently, the biggest challenge is finding adequate space to store and sort clothes, a problem being addressed with a new venue at Jardim de Bombardia. The initiative has been positively surprised by the high interest in sustainable fashion but faces the ongoing challenge of maintaining long-term commitment to sustainable practices.
WHAT A WASTE has successfully promoted sustainable thinking, with increased engagement in prolonging the lifecycle of garments and reviving garments that would otherwise go into landfills, acting as a force that integrates sustainability into various lifestyles. However, Kravetz reflects on the importance of balancing giving and receiving, emphasizing self-care to sustain her charitable work and initiatives.
5. Analysis – Suggestions/recommendations
5.1 SIN Problem
The Social Entrepreneur's Intervention Space is composed of three factors that feed into each other: Passion, Knowledge, and SIN problem (See appendix for picture of model). For a problem to qualify as a SIN problem, there needs to be spillover, it needs to be important and neglected. This section will analyse WHAT A WASTE's SIN problem as the other two factors of the Social Entrepreneur's Intervention Spaced will be further analysed in section "5.1 Differentiated Solution" of this report.
The spillover generated by WHAT A WASTE can be captured in activities that focus oncommunity, social, environmental, and educational.
First of all, WHAT A WASTE works diligently to build a strong community in the intersection between responsible and creative fashion. The spillover exists because the venture creates a meeting point for people who may otherwise not have met and, thanks to WHAT A WASTE, engage and inspire one another to more creative and responsible fashion. The community also has the effect of being a platform that breaks down barriers between people who otherwise would not interact which generates a positive spillover.
Secondly, WHAT A WASTE has social spillover as it is positioned as a responsible alternative to fast fashion – and as mentioned in a previous section of this report, fast fashion is dependent on cheap labour from sweatshops where workers are both paid and treated unfairly. By choosing to recycle and upcycle garments that are already bought, and encouraging local producers and creators, there is a positive social spillover.
Thirdly, the initiative contributes to a lower volume of garments created, and thereby also fewer garments being thrown into landfills by matching consumer desires for new clothes with clothes that has already been produced, bought, and worn. WHAT A WASTE therefore has a positive environmental spillover as it fosters and encourages consumers to use creativity alternative to fast fashion to make their habits less taxing on the environment.
Finally, Kravetz emphasises the impact on educating and sharing of knowledge as a key component of WHAT A WASTE. The spillover generated by this value is a more knowledgeable consumer base that make more responsible decisions in their consumption.
The importance of the problem that WHAT A WASTE tackles is major, as has been described earlier in this report, the current fashion industry causes a great negative impact on the environment both in its production and the way it is discarded and the volume that is discarded (Ross, 2021). Furthermore, the negative social impact is severe with labourers being underpaid and exposed to harmful working environments (Ross, 2021). The size of the industry and neglect from the average consumer also contributes to how significant the problem is (Francis, 2021).
In the case of WHAT A WASTE, the SIN problem of responsible recycling of garments may not seem to qualify as a neglected issue as there are multiple organisations already working on gathering used clothes to then sell them second hand in stores like Humana or flee markets around the city of Lisbon. However, WHAT A WASTE tackles the issue on a broader frontier, as it includes garments that would not be conventionally pretty enough to be sold, and differentiates themselves from these organisations by taking the clients away from a market environment and into a community where clients can swap clothes between community members. It makes the lives of the garments truly circular instead of just adding another "buy, use, discard" loop.
5.2 Differentiated Solution
Key Causes Addressed
The current unsustainable trends of the fashion industry is based on consumer demand for cheap clothes at a high volume and the fashion brands encouraging this behaviour by shortening the time-span of collections from seasonal to fast fashion enabled micro trends.
Companies like H&M, Zara, Boohoo, and Shien have created their business on fast fashion and micro trends; the faster they can produce and distribute new trends, the cheaper they can make them, the more demand they create, and therefore also profit.
These garments are created to not last for long, to be thrown out once the trend is over so that the consumer will go back to the store in need of new, cheap garments that follow the next micro-trend.
It is not uncommon that the consumer does not want to take part of this cycle and contribute to fast fashion, but due to budget constrains cannot afford clothes that are made to last.
Target Audience/Focus (and why they care/need)
Target audience is both the clients and the main beneficiaries, as the target audience are the participants of the clothing swaps and workshop that WHAT A WASTE hosts. The indirect beneficiaries are also the environment and the suppliers as the garments need a lot of space to be kept in and the alternative to going to WHAT A WASTE would be to send them to land fills.
The target group has continuously shifted to facilitate for the different projects taking place and adjusting for project scopes and goals. However, a common thread through Kravetz's projects have been eco-conscious, female empowerment, and benefitting a social community; hence the target group are individuals that identify with these values.
Experience & Skills
Kravetz has extensive experience in the fashion industry, holding a variety of position and taking various roles in a vast variety of countries around the world. Her masters degree is also within the field of fine arts which means that she has the combination of theoretical and practical experience within the art and fashion sphere.
She has also previously created or been a key player in projects, charities, and initiatives for a kinder and more sustainable world. Kravetz has therefore a long history of projects in the intersection between fashion and making a positive social impact.
Skills in creativity, understanding of fabric and garments, as well as the ability to understand the pushes and pulls of collective values and trends are attributes that Kravetz possesses. The ability to see opportunities and how they can benefit those in need and recognition potential where others cannot see it, are skills that has enabled WHAT A WASTE in various ways.
Interests and Passions
After attending a WHAT A WASTE event and meeting Kravetz, it was evident that Kravetz has great interest in fashion and the artistic element of it. As the research about the venture and its entrepreneur continued, the devotion to creativity and self-expression through designs became more and more visible. Garments is a great medium to practice it oneself, and Kravetz initiative and spirit can help others feel more confident and creative using it too.
During the interview she also mentioned that she has a strong passion for giving and sharing with her community, inspired by the quote "A candle loses nothing by lighting another candle". Evidentially, Kravetz is passionate about creating positive social change through her entrepreneurial drive and creative mindset.
This combination shows that she is an important player in the intersection between fashion and social impact, and Kravetz's multiple projects in the space demonstrates the love and dedication she holds for this topic.
6. Reflections & Learnings
6.1 Suggestions
This section is dedicated to suggestions that are meant to spur ideation for potential new strategies to add value to the Impact Venture. When writing these suggestions, a lot of thought was given to maintain the unique position WHAT A WASTE holds and with an attempt to be in harmony with the strategies and structures already in place.
First of all, as a way to highlight the amount of positive spill-over that WHAT A WASTE has, the volume of garments that has been rescued from going to a landfill could be counted and listed on the website. This way stakeholders or stakeholders-to-be can more easily access these metrics and have a more tangible understanding of how their actions have supported the work of prolonged garment life.
Secondly, to create a platform like a WhatsApp group chat where members that identify as part of the community can communicate and get updates on events and projects. It is also a way for individuals to keep in touch between events and an easy way to communicate with the userbase and for new members to join. The platform used should reflect where the userbase is active on naturally.
Thirdly and finally, having a statement that encapsulate what the various target groups that WHAT A WASTE targets could encourage a sense of belonging to the beneficiaries and clients. As WHAT A WASTE emphasises that it is a community and works for a positive impact on the surrounding community, that can be the identifier of the target group. For example explicitly mention values that the beneficiaries and clients identify with, aspirations and passions they have, as well as habits rather than the classic target groups based on age, gender, and socio-economic group.
6.2 Learnings
Throughout the process of getting to know this venture and its entrepreneur as well as gaining knowledge about the industry it is active in, there was a consistent positive impression that Kravetz has an extensive experience in both the fashion industry and making a positive social impact with an entrepreneurial spirit shining through it all.
In combination with the theoretical concepts presented in the course accompanied by the group assignments, this report emphasised how a strong will, a bright idea, and determination can lead to a positive social impact.
Learning theoretically that entrepreneurship is a characteristic and behaviour rather than a job title was hard for me to grasp until learning about Kravetz's journey and projects that started long before she created WHAT A WASTE. I also found it so beautiful how the drive in Kravetz's case has always been to create positive impact with entrepreneurial projects as a tool. I believe that it gave perspective and depth to learn about WHAT A WASTE and take part in one of the events and see how diverse socially entrepreneurial projects can be.
When writing the suggestions, it was important for me to understand what the goal and intention of WHAT A WASTE is, as it is not the traditional or standard Impact Venture we have learned about in class, but rather a project with Impact Venture qualities.
7. Conclusion
The interview with WHAT A WASTE and Kravetz revealed valuable insights into addressing environmental and social issues through an impact venture. WHAT A WASTE's unique approach to tackling social and environmental problem of fast fashion showcases the potential of social entrepreneurial projects to drive meaningful change.
The analysis identified WHAT A WASTE through the lenses of the theoretical frameworks taught in the course and offering recommendations to enhance the venture's operations and outreach. The reflections emphasized the intersection between theory and action within the sphere of social impact and impact ventures and how a sustained impact can be sustained.
In conclusion, WHAT A WASTE is a powerful example of purposeful social entrepreneurial project. It highlights the role of impact ventures in promoting sustainability, responsible consumption, and community involvement. The lessons learned from this venture underscore the need for ongoing innovation and collaboration to address global challenges effectively.
8. Appendix
8.1 Interview
1. Please introduce yourself with a few sentences.
Answer:
Milena Kravetz, an internationally acclaimed photographer and creative director currently based in Lisbon, Portugal, is the creator of the sustainable fashion project "WHAT A WASTE". Born on November 5, 1988, Kravetz has a Master's degree in Fine Art and Sculpture and has traveled widely, residing in 35 countries. Her professional background includes significant contributions to documentary photography and filmmaking for UNESCO , including award-winning work as a director of photography. Milena combines her teaching and artistic skills in various projects that emphasize sustainability and creative expression.
As a little girl, I took part in a Shabad celebration where a profound phrase about giving light A Candle Loses Nothing by Lighting Another Candle, like that of a candle, deeply moved me. This light was shared among the community, symbolizing unity and continuous giving.
My concept of charity extends beyond mere material aid; it encompasses the sharing of skills and resources within the community I influence. Over the years, I've initiated various charitable projects.
In 2015, I started a "Giving Day" initiative in India. As a creative director at a denim shop, I noticed the excessive waste of fashion samples and outdated jeans that would otherwise end up in landfills. My project focused on redistributing these clothes to those in need, collecting them from shops and manufacturers.
Another venture involved assembling bookshelves from collected books and setting them up in public spaces like hospitals and educational centers, making reading accessible to more people.
These efforts were not formal projects or businesses but were built on the strong connections within the communities I was part of.
2. How would you describe your venture/initiative WHAT A WASTE?
Answer:
The initiative "WHAT A WASTE" focus on reducing waste in the fashion industry, it emphasizes eco-friendly practices to innovate within fashion while addressing issues of waste and sustainability.
For me it a matter of balance in life. Working as a fashion photographer I love to see art of fashion and I appreciate the artistry in fashion but cannot ignore the substantial waste it generates, such as the issue of fast fashion.
3. What inspired you to start it?
Answer:
My inspiration for starting this venture stemmed from several factors aimed at mitigating the negative impacts of the conventional fashion industry on the environment and society:
Environmental Concerns: The fashion industry is a major global polluter, significantly contributing to water pollution, waste accumulation, and carbon emissions. Initiatives that utilize eco-friendly materials, promote circular fashion practices, or develop new sustainable production techniques are highly inspiring.
Ethical Production: Awareness of labor exploitation, including poor working conditions and unfair wages, motivates a shift towards ethically produced clothing that respects workers' rights and well-being.
Innovation in Materials: The development of sustainable materials, such as recycled textiles or alternatives to traditional fabrics (e.g., plant-based leather from banana crop waste), reduces environmental impact and opens new creative avenues in fashion design.
Consumer Demand for Sustainability: Increasing eco-consciousness among consumers drives demand for clothing that reflects their values, demonstrating that style and environmental responsibility can coexist.
Supporting Local Economies: Emphasizing local production and sourcing helps reduce transportation emissions and supports local artisans and textile producers, fostering community development and sustainability.
Educational Impact: Sustainable fashion projects can raise awareness about the environmental and social impacts of fashion, influencing consumer behavior and industry standards.
Any garments beyond reuse or upcycling are responsibly recycled, completing the circle of sustainability.
4. Did the target group change anything from when you started until today? Is the number of participants what you expected?
Answer:
I cannot provide a definite answer as this question requires continuous adjustments based on stakeholder feedback and shifts in project goals, including an analysis of initial goals, current progress, and any changes in participant numbers or project scope.
5. What makes your customer choose WHAT A WASTE over your competitors?
Answer:
Firstly let me tell you how the initiative works in a few steps
Step 1: Swap EventsWe organise very vibrant swap events where you can bring your pre-loved clothes and exchange them freely – no restrictions. Groove to the beats spun by talented DJs while exploring art and book swaps. It's a great celebration of style and sustainability. So its FUN over all.
Step 2: GivingWe collaborate with Sónia Sousa from Largo Residencias, who allocates some garments to individuals in need, fostering community support and inclusivity.
Step 3: Upcycling Initiativewe deliver the clothes to Portuguese artists who do up cycling are repurposing garments for creative new purposes, infusing sustainability into every stitch in their new cool pieces.
Step 4: we take care of Responsible Recycling
Step 5 (optional) :Choosing a few pieces from leftovers for photoshoots or/and affordable sale at the markets supports our project's sustainability by helping to cover event costs such as lights, hangers, and transportation, thus ensuring the success of our initiative. We take part in the market and other events selling some pieces and telling about initiative.
So people might choose WHAT A WASTE over competitors for several key reasons:
1. Unique Experience: The swap events provide a unique, enjoyable experience that combines fashion with entertainment and community engagement.
2. Community Impact: The partnership with community figures like Sónia Sousa enhances the social impact, directly benefiting those in need.
3. Creative Reuse: The focus on upcycling with Portuguese artists not only promotes sustainability but also supports local creatives, offering customers products that are both eco-friendly and artistically unique.
4. Environmental Responsibility: The commitment to responsible recycling demonstrates a serious dedication to environmental concerns, aligning with the values of eco-conscious consumers.
5. Economic Support: The initiative's involvement in local markets and its strategy to reuse and resell clothes help sustain its operations financially while promoting circular fashion.
6. What is your biggest struggle currently?
Answer:
Our biggest struggle currently is finding adequate space to store and separate clothes according to themes. However, Largo Residencias is constructing a new venue at Jardim de Bombardia to address this issue.
7. What has been the biggest surprise since you started?
Answer:
The biggest surprises since starting the initiative have been: Positive Surprise: There is a significant interest in sustainable fashion.
Negative Surprise: Maintaining long-term commitment to sustainability practices is challenging as it requires continual encouragement and being a role model to build lasting habits.
8. Would you say that WHAT A WASTE has been able to stay on track to deliver on its mission?
Answer:
Yes, WHAT A WASTE appears to be successfully staying on track to fulfill its mission. The organization's influence in fostering sustainable thinking has manifested through the increased engagement in sustainable practices, such as purchasing from second-hand and vintage stores, attending flea markets, and selling old clothes on platforms like Vinted. These actions indicate a growing public shift towards sustainable fashion and a broader commitment to reducing waste, reflecting the organization's core goals.
WHAT A WASTE and similar entities can act as catalysts for integrating sustainability into various lifestyles and industries, making them effective role models in promoting sustainable living.
9. Are there any mistakes you look back at and regret? Any specific one you'd like to share?
Answer:
Are there any past mistakes that I regret? Absolutely. One specific mistake that comes to mind is losing the balance between giving and receiving. According to my philosophy on charity, you cannot give what you don't possess yourself—this includes time and energy. Therefore, I advocate for prioritizing self-care, akin to the advice given during airplane safety instructions: secure your own oxygen mask before assisting others.
For about a decade, I've tried to maintain this balance, but occasionally I still falter. When this happens, I feel depleted, neglecting to invest in my skills and professional network, and instead, I drain my personal resources. It has been a challenging lesson, but one that has significantly shaped my approach to personal and professional life, including charity and initiatives.
8.2 SIN Problem (image after the text)
9. Sources
Beall, A. Published July 2020. "Why clothes are so hard to recycle". BBC. https://www.bbc.com/future/article/20200710-why-clothes-are-so-hard-to-recycle (accessed May 14th 2024)
European Parliament. Published December 2020. "The impact of textile production and waste on the environment infographics". European Parliament. https://www.europarl.europa.eu/topics/en/article/20201208STO93327/the-impact-of-textile-production-and-waste-on-the-environment-infographics (accessed May 14th 2024)
Francis, Gemma. Published November 2021 "Almost half of adults don't consider fast fashion's environmental impact, poll suggests" The Independent. https://www.independent.co.uk/climate-change/adults-fast-fashion-environment-pollution-b1949041.html (accessed May 17th 2024)
Greenpeace, Helle Abelvik-Lawson. Published September 2023. "How fast fashion fuels climate change, plastic pollution, and violence". Greenpeace. https://www.greenpeace.org/international/story/62308/how-fast-fashion-fuels-climate-change-plastic-pollution-and-violence/ (accessed April 1st 2024)
Ross, Emma. Published October 2021. "Fast Fashion getting faster: a look at the unethical labor practices sustaining a growing industry". George Washington University Law Brief. https://studentbriefs.law.gwu.edu/ilpb/2021/10/28/... (accessed May 16th 2024)
